Basic knowledge of silk

Silk fabrics, known as the Queen of Clothing, are shiny and elegant in style. China's silk is well-known in the world.

(1) Classification and Name Number of Silk Fabrics

Silk fabrics are classified into 14 categories according to their appearance and structural characteristics. Namely: Shao, spinning, crepe, silk, satin, cotton, silk, silk, silk, silk, Luo, yarn, Ge, Dai, Yarn and velvet.

But when it is named, it is based on product categories and preceded by modifiers. Its modifiers include the types of raw materials. Technological characteristics and fabric morphology. Organizational characteristics and main uses. For example: rayon soft satin, ancient satin, trumpet silk, etc. If you add in its grade. The raw materials used are also clear.

The number of silk fabrics can be divided into export number and domestic number.

The export silk fabric number is shown in Table 47. The export silk number consists of five digits, the first representing raw materials, the second (sometimes two or three together) representing a large category, and the third, fourth and fifth (sometimes only four or five) representing variety specifications. For example, the first "l" in l560 electric spinning is mulberry silk, and the second "1" represents spinning. The third, fourth and fifth "560" are the specific specifications.

The number of domestic silk fabrics is shown in Table 48. It also uses five digits. In order to distinguish it from export sales, 1-7 digits are not used, only 8-9 digits are used. The first digit represents the use of silk fabrics, of which 8 represents silk fabrics for clothing and 9 represents quilt and decorative fabrics. The second digit represents the attributes of raw materials. The third digit represents the organizational structure. The fourth and fifth digits represent the specification serial number.

(2) Performance characteristics of silk fabrics

Various silk fabrics made of mulberry silk and tussah silk and spun from silk or silk yarn have the following main characteristics, which can be used for reference in clothing selection and processing:

1. The strength of all kinds of pure silk fabrics is higher than that of pure wool fabrics, but their crease resistance is worse than that of wool fabrics.

2. Mulberry silk fabrics are white, delicate, soft and bright, smooth and soft, elegant and luxurious. They are high-grade clothing materials.

3. Tussah silk fabrics are yellow and dark in color, rough in appearance, soft and unpleasant in handle, slightly astringent, durable and cheap, so they are suitable for middle-grade clothing and clothing in time. Especially when the moisture regain rate is 30%, there is no moist feeling.

The heat resistance of 4 silk fabrics is better than that of cotton and wool fabrics. Generally, the ironing temperature can be controlled between 150 and 180 C. Aurora can be avoided by comfort pad. For tussah fabrics, water spraying should be avoided in order to prevent water stains from being difficult to remove and affecting the appearance of the fabrics.

5. The surface of silk fabrics is rough, with pupae debris showing black spots, astringent and soft handle, milky-white color and different style. The price of silk fabrics is cheaper than that of filament fabrics. It is also an ideal fabric for external clothing.

6. The light resistance of silk fabrics is the worst among all kinds of fabrics, so the long-term light wearability is poor.

7. It is stable to inorganic acid, but it will cause hydrolysis when the concentration is high. Sensitive to alkali reaction, neutral soap should be used in washing.

History of Silk Development:

China is the first country in the world to breed silkworm and silk reeling. Silk has a history of about 5000 years. The ancestors of the Chinese nation not only invented silk, but also prospered silk and made use of it. They made silk clothes glorious in dress, economy, art and culture, and then made silk clothes overwhelming the world. Ancient Sichuan Shu Brocade, Suzhou Song Brocade and Nanjing Yun Brocade, known as the three famous brocades, are excellent representatives of silk fabrics and still enjoy a high reputation in the world. Therefore, in a sense, silk represents China's long and splendid culture.

In the prehistoric era around 5,000 years ago, silk dawn appeared in the Yellow River Basin. By Shang and Zhou Dynasties, silk had been developed. With the great economic development of the Warring States, Qin and Han Dynasties, silk production reached a peak. In 126 B.C., under Emperor Wudi's westward policy, a large number of Chinese silk was transported westward through the Silk Road. After the development of Wei, Jin and Northern Dynasties to the Tang Dynasty, great changes have taken place in Chinese silk. On the one hand, it compromises the traditional heritage, on the other hand, it is compatible with the advantages of foreign technology and patterns. With the high development of ancient science and technology in the Song and Yuan Dynasties, the silk production technology was greatly developed, the variety style was innovated, and the focus of silk production was transferred from the Yellow River Basin to the southern region of the Yangtze River; to the Ming and Qing Dynasties, Jiangnan, Jiangsu and Hangzhou became the most important silk production area, and a number of typical silk specialized towns were developed, and the government-run weaving was also carried out. At this time, China's silk has developed to the most active period. Since 1804, China's silk industry has begun to move towards modernization. After the founding of the People's Republic, China's silk industry has developed rapidly and established a relatively complete silk industry system. Silk products have been sold in more than 100 countries and regions around the world. Under the new situation of reform and opening up, China's ancient silk is glowing with new youth and heading for a brilliant future.

Classification of silk fabrics:

Silk fabrics can be divided into plain fabrics and flower fabrics. Vegetable fabrics are plain and clean fabrics, such as electric spinning, twill silk and so on. Flower fabrics have small pattern fabrics, such as polyester crepe, large pattern fabrics, such as soft satin, etc. Silk fabrics can also be divided into raw and cooked fabrics. Fabrics woven from Non-diameter scouring and dyeing silk yarns are called raw fabrics. Fabrics made from scouring and dyeing silk yarns are called cooked fabrics.

Fabric is an object interwoven by two systems of silk threads (i.e. diameter and weft) arranged vertically on the loom. Within the fabric, the silk threads arranged parallel to the silk edge are called diameter threads, and the silk threads arranged vertically with the silk edge are called weft threads.

Fabric classification:

The classification principle of silk fabrics is based primarily on the structure of the fabric, secondly on the manufacturing processes such as raw, cooked and twisted fabrics, and secondly on the substantive shape of the fabric. At present, silk fabrics can be divided into fourteen categories:

1. Textiles: plain weave is used to form plain, compact and lighter flower, plain and stripe fabric. The diameter and weft are generally not twisted. For example, electric spinning, color spinning.

2. Crepe: Applying various technological conditions and organizational structure in weaving (such as strong twist or strength of tension or shrinkage of raw materials) to make the appearance of fabrics similar to crepe effect, such as Georgette and crepe de chine.

3. Silk: The ground pattern of fabrics can be plain weave or varied weave, or mixed with other weaves, such as embroidery.

4. Satin: All or most of the ground texture of the fabric is satin-weaved fancy fabric, with smooth and bright surface and soft handle, such as soft satin, human silk satin.

5. Silk; plain weave or even weave, warp and weft first whitening, dyeing monochrome or polychrome familiar floral fabric, lighter texture, fine, flat and straight silk surface, such as taffeta.

6. Velvet: Flower plain fabrics with various twill weaves as ground pattern have significant twill patterns on the surface, such as twill silk and beautiful silk.

7. Roche: Flower plain fabrics, such as polyester yarn and Hangzhou Roche, which use Roche to form a series of yarn holes in warp or weft direction.

8. Yarn category: Applied skein weave, in all or part of the grain or pattern to form porous anthocyanin fabrics, such as luyarn mountain yarn and screen silk.

9. Silk: plain weave or skein weave or other weave parallel to weft and diameter weave to form anthocyanin fabric with yarn-like holes. It has low density of diameter and weft, transparent and light texture, such as scarf taper and stripe taper.

10. Pueraria: Generally, the warp and weft are thick, the warp and weft are sparse, the surface of the ground grain is less lustrous, but the warp and weft are generally not twisted, such as Wen Shang Ge and Ming Hua Ge.

11. Fabric: Ground texture is made of crepe or short float texture. It does not show lustre. It has a fuller, thicker and woolly texture, such as plain flowers.

12. Velvet: All or part of the ground pattern and pattern are made of anthocyanin fabrics, such as jockey velvet and velvet, with a plush or looped surface.

13. Tape: Use filament as warp, cotton wax yarn or other low-grade raw materials as weft, ground pattern is composed of plain weave, thick anthocyanin fabrics, such as quilt surface and quilt.

14. Brocade: Colorful, exquisite and elegant yarn-dyed multi-shuttle jacquard fabrics, such as brocade satin and ancient satin.

—— Information Source: Chinese Silk Screen